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Shutterstock.com (Background); Photo © By Daphne Hougard (Lois Ellen Frank); Courtesy of Brit Reed (Taelor Barton); DAN KOECK/The New York Times/Redux (All Other Images)

Tasty Traditions

How Native American chefs are celebrating their people’s culture through food

By Jacqueline Adams
From the October/November 2021 Issue
Lexile: 950L; 640L
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 As you read, think about why it can be important to preserve cultural traditions.

Native Americans have lived on the land that is now the United States for thousands of years. For much of their history, they have made tasty dishes from plants they found close to home. They also fished and hunted local game, such as deer and bison.

In the 16th century, Europeans began arriving in the Americas. They brought foods that Native Americans had never seen before, such as dairy products and wheat flour. Native Americans introduced Europeans to tomatoes, squash, beans, and many other foods we eat today. 

In the 1800s, the U.S. government began forcing tribal nations to leave their land, where they were experts at growing and preparing food. They were moved onto pieces of land called reservations. 

This removal harmed the health and culture of Native Americans. Many Indigenous peoples could no longer find or grow their traditional foods. The government gave them foods made from European ingredients that were often high in fat, salt, and sugar. 

Today, many Indigenous people from tribal nations all over the country are working to keep their food traditions alive. Read on to meet three chefs who are sharing these foods with a wide audience.

Native Americans have long lived on the land that’s now the United States. They were here for thousands of years. For much of that history, they made tasty dishes from plants they found close to home. They also fished and hunted local animals, such as deer and bison.

People from Europe came to the Americas in the 16th century. They brought new foods, like milk and wheat flour. Native Americans shared foods with Europeans too. Some examples are tomatoes, squash, and beans. We still eat many of these foods today. 

Tribal nations knew how to grow and prepare food on their lands. But the U.S. government began forcing them to relocate in the 1800s. They were moved to pieces of land called reservations. 

This harmed the health and culture of Native Americans. Many Indigenous peoples could no longer find or grow their traditional foods. The government gave them foods made from European ingredients. They were often high in fat, salt, and sugar. 

Today, many Indigenous people are working to keep their food traditions alive. Read on to meet three chefs sharing these foods with others.

Sean Sherman, Oglala Lakota Nation

DAN KOECK/The New York Times/Redux

Sherman teaching a cooking workshop at a lodge in North Dakota

Sean Sherman is a chef on a mission. Last summer, his company, The Sioux Chef, opened a training center in Minneapolis, Minnesota. The center is called the Indigenous Food Lab. Its aim is to help Native American communities start restaurants and other food businesses.

Sherman is a member of the Oglala Lakota Nation. He grew up on a reservation in South Dakota. His family often ate the foods supplied by the U.S. government. But Sherman loved to forage for food with his relatives, especially sweet berries called chokecherries. They would simmer this fruit to make wojapi (woh-ZJAH-pee), a thick sauce.

Sean Sherman is a chef on a mission. His company, The Sioux Chef, opened a training center last summer. It’s in Minneapolis, Minnesota. The center is called the Indigenous Food Lab. Its aim is to help Native American communities start restaurants and other food businesses. 

Sherman is a member of the Oglala Lakota Nation. He grew up on a reservation in South Dakota. His family often ate the foods provided by the U.S. government. But Sherman loved to forage for food with his relatives. He really liked sweet chokecherries. His family would simmer these berries to make wojapi (woh-ZJAH-pee), a thick sauce.

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The sweet fruit of  chokecherry trees  is used in ceremonies  of Indigenous peoples  of the Great Plains.

To help protect rare plants from disappearing, Sherman works with Seed Savers Exchange, a seed bank that collects and shares seeds. He also encourages people to learn about acorns, cattails, dandelions, and other plants that people today think are weeds. “So much food is literally all around us,” he says, “and all these plants have purposes.”

Sherman works with a seed bank called Seed Savers Exchange. It collects and shares seeds. It aims to help protect rare plants from dying out. Sherman also wants people to learn about acorns, cattails, dandelions, and wild plants that people often see as weeds. “So much food is literally all around us,” says Sherman. “And all these plants have purposes.”

DAN KOECK/The New York Times/Redux

Sherman picks edible flowers, like wild sunflowers (left) and bergamot (right), to use in his dishes.

Lois Ellen Frank, Kiowa Tribe heritage

Photo © By Daphne Hougard

Frank teaching a cooking class with fellow chef Walter Whitewater

In 1991, Lois Ellen Frank tried to publish a book about Native American cuisine featuring foods from the American Southwest. But publishers rejected Frank’s idea. They told Frank, whose grandfather was Kiowa, that Native peoples didn’t have a cuisine. Frank set out to prove them wrong. 

She returned to school to study the history of Native American recipes and chefs. Indigenous peoples have a variety of food traditions, depending on whether they lived in forests, deserts, or plains.

Lois Ellen Frank tried to publish a book in 1991. It was about Native American cuisine. It featured foods from the American Southwest. But publishers rejected Frank’s idea. They told Frank, whose grandfather was Kiowa, that Native peoples didn’t have a cuisine. So she set out to prove them wrong. 

Frank returned to school. She studied the history of Native American recipes and chefs. Indigenous peoples have a variety of food traditions. These traditions depend on whether the people lived in forests, deserts, or plains.

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The prickly pear cactus’s green pads and sweet fruit are staple foods for many Native Americans from the Southwestern U.S.

“The ways Native American communities plant crops and harvest wild foods are very different,” she says. 

Frank went on to write an award-winning cookbook. Its recipes include ingredients such as prickly pear cactus. Today, she owns her own catering company in Santa Fe, New Mexico. “Native peoples do in fact have a cuisine,” she says. “It’s diverse, delicious, and nutritious.”

“The ways Native American communities plant crops and harvest wild foods are very different,” she says. 

Frank went on to write an award-winning cookbook. Its recipes have ingredients like prickly pear cactus. Today, she owns her own catering company. It’s in Santa Fe, New Mexico. “Native peoples do in fact have a cuisine,” she says. “It’s diverse, delicious, and nutritious.”

Taelor Barton, Cherokee Nation

STACIE GUTHRIE/CHEROKEE PHOENIX

Barton preparing bean cakes, a Cherokee dish, at The Vault restaurant

When Taelor Barton was growing up in Oklahoma, her favorite dish was kanuchi (kah-NUH-chee). Her Cherokee grandmother would make the traditional porridge by grinding hickory nuts into a paste. “I revisit those memories every time I taste those flavors,” says Barton. 

Today, Barton teaches people about her Nation’s food. She serves Cherokee dishes at The Vault restaurant, in Tulsa, Oklahoma, where she is executive chef.

Taelor Barton grew up in Oklahoma. Her favorite dish as a kid was kanuchi (kah-NUH-chee). It’s a traditional porridge. Her Cherokee grandmother would make it. She would grind hickory nuts into a paste. “I revisit those memories every time I taste those flavors,” says Barton. 

Today, Barton teaches people about her Nation’s food. She’s the executive chef at the Vault restaurant. It’s in Tulsa, Oklahoma. There, she serves Cherokee dishes.

Sean Gallup/Getty Images

Hickory nuts are a traditional food source for members of the Cherokee Nation.

Barton learned about Cherokee food as an adult by speaking with her grandparents and by foraging for useful plants with her grandfather. “Sometimes, experiencing a journey is as simple as learning about your own family,” says Barton.

Barton learned about Cherokee food as an adult. She spoke about it with her grandparents. She also foraged for useful plants with her grandfather. “Sometimes, experiencing a journey is as simple as learning about your own family,” says Barton.

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